Tourguide in Japan (EN)
Esma Esra
Discover the story of Esma Esra, the face behind Tulu Tours, and how she found her way into a career as a tour guide in Japan.
Esma Esra shares her journey from education to establishing her business in Tokyo, including the websites and tools that helped her build her successful career as a tour guide. Oh, and she came up with the idea while heavily pregnant in the hospital…
Esma Esra (31 years old) was born in the Netherlands and moved to Japan to continue her studies—a journey that seemed carefully planned—until it no longer was. Along the way, she made the shift from the academic world to the bustling streets of Tokyo, where she began guiding others through the city’s complex layers. What started as a leap of faith grew into a career and a story worth telling.
First of all, what did you study?
In the Netherlands, I studied Social Geography and Urban Planning in Amsterdam. Urban planning is about designing and organizing the spaces we live in, considering how we can best use the limited space we have, especially in a country like the Netherlands. Social geography looks at the interaction between people and their environments, which includes culture, politics, and of course, the economy.
I did study and even taught at the university, but I never really felt like I fit into the academic world. University education is often very theoretical, and I had the urge to gain more practical experience and connect with people from different cultures. So, instead of spending long summers in Turkey, I decided to spend my summer vacations working on international projects. I participated in research projects, conferences, and programs in Turkey, the United States, and South Korea.
During those experiences, I met new people from all over the world, and what I found especially interesting was the clear differences between people. For example, Turks in the Netherlands are very different from Turks in Turkey. The same goes for Chinese people in the Netherlands, who often have a different way of thinking compared to people in China. Through these encounters and conversations, I learned a lot about different perspectives and cultures, which continues to inspire me even today.
This led me to decide that I wanted to pursue my master's abroad. The idea of leaving my familiar environment and discovering something new appealed to me. I had a great experience in the United States and considered studying there as well. But soon, I ran into the practical side of things: studying in the U.S. is very expensive, and at that time, there were no full scholarships available for Dutch students. So, I started looking at countries I didn’t know yet, where I could find new challenges and opportunities.
I had always been interested in infrastructure, especially advanced metro systems. That’s why countries like China, South Korea, and Japan caught my attention. Even though I didn’t have much prior connection to those countries, I decided to apply for scholarships in Japan and South Korea. It took almost a year before I heard anything, but eventually, the good news came: Japan accepted me first. And that’s how I ended up in Japan, a country I never expected to go to and one I hadn’t researched much beforehand. It was quite nerve-wracking to land there, especially because it’s such a different world from what I was used to…
How are you selected for a scholarship?
For Japan, I received a full scholarship, which was quite competitive. But that doesn’t mean I had all 9s on my transcript—far from it! They do look at your GPA and academic performance, but other factors are important too. For example, the ranking of your university; the University of Amsterdam is ranked fairly high globally. Your extracurricular activities also play a role.
On top of that, I had to write a solid research proposal. After being selected by the university, I still had to be approved by a professor who was willing to host me in their lab. The whole process was quite intense, but in the end, it was definitely worth it. Otherwise, there wouldn't have been a Tulu Tours, haha!
My dad jokingly said, "You won’t get the scholarship."
To which I replied, "What if I do?" He looked at me and said, "Then you can go." And he kept his word.
When I told my dad that I had applied, he jokingly said, "You won’t get the scholarship."
Not because he thought I wasn't good enough, but because the chances of being selected were so incredibly slim. I replied, "What if I do?" He looked at me and said, "Then you can go." And he kept his word.
My parents were never really strict. They always had a lot of trust in us—in my sister, my brothers, and me. They knew we were serious about what we were doing, so for them, it was never really an issue. But when I was heading to Japan, of course, it was a bit of an adjustment for them.
What I found funny is that in Turkish culture, parents often prefer their children to stay close by. Going to another country is seen as exciting, but going to a place like Japan? And honestly, how many Turks do you know who go to Japan? It’s just not that common, so it made it extra special—and a bit nerve-wracking—for them. But I made sure to fly back every six months to visit my family and friends, and of course, to enjoy a hearty whole grain sandwich with Dutch cheese—something Japan doesn’t have!
Have you ever felt guilty or worried about money?
Financially, it wasn’t an issue for me because I received a scholarship. If I hadn’t had that, I probably wouldn’t have gone. That would have meant I would have had to ask my parents for money, and although they wouldn’t mind at all, I would have felt uncomfortable with that. I received a MEXT scholarship, fully funded by the Japanese government, which meant I could manage financially without any worries.
As for the feeling of guilt: we have a family business, where hard work is just part of the deal. Of course, I felt guilty that I couldn’t help out more with that. But there are five of us, so in the end, it was manageable. It also gave me the confidence that everything at home was taken care of, allowing me to focus on my experience in Japan.
MEXT Scholarship (Monbukagakusho): This is a scholarship from the Japanese government for international students who want to study in undergraduate (bachelor) or graduate (master/PhD) programs in Japan. Students receive 143,000-145,000 yen (about €900) per month. The scholarship covers full tuition fees, entrance exam costs, airfare, and provides a living allowance.
Source: mymextscholarship.com
How did you prepare for your trip to Japan?
I was on vacation in Turkey when I received the acceptance email. Once I was admitted, I had to leave within a month. I didn’t have much time to properly say goodbye to anyone. I hadn’t told anyone that I had applied for a scholarship in Japan, so everyone reacted with, “What?! Where are you going?!”
So, yes, I only had a month to pack everything. I think I didn’t fully realize it myself until I arrived in Japan. That’s when I thought, “Oh…” I had one suitcase and was wearing two coats on top of each other because otherwise, I would have exceeded the weight limit for my luggage. And I still remember that the place I was going to was Hokkaido, a place known for its harsh winters. It snows there for eight months a year—that was the only thing I knew about it… oh, and anime, of course.
Culture shock?
The first culture shock I experienced was when I arrived at the airport.
I had no idea where I needed to go, I had to catch a train. Suddenly, a staff member ran up to me. Of course, I didn’t understand him, but he gestured for me to follow him. He ran with me to the train and said (or, well, I think he said): “You need to go this way!” And he helped me buy a ticket. I remember thinking, "Wow, this would never happen in the Netherlands!"
Now, when I travel to Turkey, the Netherlands, or other countries, I actually expect something like that. It’s a very different kind of hospitality and willingness to help.
How did you feel as a Muslim in Japan?
As you probably know, Muslims are often portrayed negatively in the news in the Netherlands, with a one-sided image being presented. My experience in Japan was quite different, and it started when I applied for a job as a front desk staff member at a hotel. I wanted to learn the language as quickly as possible, and personally, I didn’t enjoy the language lessons at school (as I mentioned, I’m more of a hands-on learner).
I remember how nervous I was for the job interview. In the Netherlands, I had been directly rejected because of my headscarf. "Would you be willing to remove your headscarf to avoid scaring off customers?" they had asked me.
So, I was afraid it might be an issue in Japan too, since it involved customer contact in uniform. But during the interview, the man didn’t mention it at all, so I decided to bring it up myself. I asked, "Is my headscarf a problem?" He looked at me as if I had said something very strange and said, "Why would that be a problem?" I wanted to be sure I understood, so I asked, "Is it better if I wear more neutral colors, like black?" His response was completely unexpected: "No, you should wear nice, bright colors! That’s much more fun!"
Even though everyone wore a uniform, I was given a budget to buy my own clothes that would be modest for me, with the condition that they fit with the style of the uniform. I thought that was such a thoughtful gesture.
"For the people in Japan, I’m just Dutch.
They look at me and think that this is what Dutch people look like.”
In the Netherlands, you are often seen as a foreigner, but in Japan, they see you simply as how you present yourself.
When I told people that I was a Turkish Dutch person, they sometimes got confused. They’d say, "But you have a Dutch passport, so you’re just a Dutch person, right?" The question, “But where are you really from?” I’ve never been asked. For the people in Japan, I’m simply Dutch. They look at me and think that this is what Dutch people look like.
So yes, in all the years I’ve been in Japan, I’ve never been discriminated against because of my Islamic or Turkish background. I’ve never heard anything negative about myself or felt that anyone spoke ill of me or excluded me.
How did you come to start Tulu Tours?
Before I started Tulu Tours, I worked for a tourism board in Japan. This is a government organization focused on promoting Japan as a tourist destination. Many countries have similar agencies to attract tourists. In my role, I traveled a lot across Japan and worked with local governments in different regions to raise Japan's profile in Western markets, especially in Europe, the U.S., and Australia.
What I found particularly interesting was that local governments and businesses were very interested in my background as a Muslim. There’s a lot of interest in attracting Muslim tourists, but often there’s a lack of knowledge about Islam to take that step. Japan is known for its hospitality, and when they do something, they want to do it perfectly.
For example, I met people who thought my headscarf was just a fashion statement. While some knew that I couldn’t eat pork, they knew little about alcohol or other Islamic customs. There was a gap between the demand from Muslim tourists and the willingness of businesses to welcome them, especially when it came to halal food, prayer spaces, and other facilities. This was a major challenge, but at the same time, I saw a huge opportunity.
I know so many people who are eager to visit Japan but hesitate because they don’t speak the language or are concerned about practical matters, like where they can find halal food or a place to pray. As a Muslim, I understand how much planning and preparation is needed to make your trip comfortable. You can’t just stop anywhere to eat or pray—those things need to be taken into account.
I want Muslims to be able to explore Japan without that extra stress. They should be able to experience this beautiful country worry-free, knowing that everything is taken care of—from food to prayer spaces. My goal is to let them enjoy the rich culture, the food, and the unique charm of Japan without constantly having to think about practical obstacles. Inspired by conversations in Japan and with people back home, I decided to start Tulu Tours.
What was your budget when starting your company?
Even before I started Tulu Tours, I had taught myself skills in web design, graphic design, photography, and videography. This meant I didn’t need a large budget to launch my business. Visuals play a crucial role in my company—whether it’s the Instagram feed, the website, or even communication with clients. Everything needs to align perfectly with the brand's image. Since I had developed these skills myself, I was able to start professionally right away without having to outsource, which gave me a significant head start in setting up my business. Of course, this also meant I had to invest a lot more time, and I do run ads, but there was already a clear demand for the services I offer, which gave me a solid foundation.
I work according to a simple but effective principle: the client pays upfront.
With that money, I can cover my costs and immediately reinvest in the growth of my business. This approach not only provides financial stability but also ensures I can grow my business in a sustainable and responsible way, without taking unnecessary risks. It feels not only logical but also keeps it halal.
What makes you a good travel designer?
I see myself as a "Japan expert," not just because of my knowledge of the country, but also because of my experience in planning trips. But being a good guide goes beyond just rattling off facts. You're not just a walking encyclopedia; you need to be a companion too.
Some clients, for example, experience homesickness or feel uncomfortable in a completely different culture. Others have trouble finding suitable food due to their religious beliefs, which can sometimes lead to a bad mood—or even a "hangry" moment. As a guide, you need to know the way, but also sense what your clients need and how to support them in different situations.
For instance, I once spent an hour and a half on the phone with a young woman who was nervous about flying alone to Japan. It was her first solo trip, and she was anxious. I helped her choose the right flight and gave her all the information she needed to feel at ease. These things take time, but I enjoy doing it because I want my clients to feel safe and confident.
Do you ever refuse clients?
Yes, that does happen sometimes. For example, I had a young woman in her twenties who really wanted to join a trip, but her mother was extremely worried. I said to her, "If your mother is this concerned, it might be better to wait with this trip." If the trip creates more stress than joy, it’s probably not the right time. I believe it’s important for clients to have a positive experience, and sometimes that means advising them to hold off for a while.
At Tulu Tours, it’s not just about "the customer is always right"—it’s about mutual respect and creating a good experience for everyone. Sometimes, I turn potential clients away, especially based on how they communicate with us. Respect is essential to me, both towards me and other travelers.
When it comes to group tours, I always make sure that someone is not just interested in the trip itself, but also that they can be sociable and respectful within a group setting. It’s important that everyone feels comfortable and that the group atmosphere stays positive. Travel is a special experience that is shared together, and that experience should be enjoyable and unforgettable for everyone. That's why I always take these factors into account. It’s not only about the destination but also about the people you travel with.
How did you set up your website? What programs do you use?
For graphic design, I mostly use Adobe Illustrator, and sometimes, I admit, I also use Canva—especially when I need to quickly create something simple, like an Instagram story. For videos, I usually just use my iPhone, sometimes editing with Adobe programs, but often I edit directly on my phone. While I considered buying a professional camera, I consciously choose not to carry around too much equipment. My iPhone does exactly what I need, especially for Instagram and other social media platforms.
When setting up my website, I discovered that it’s simpler than most people think. Since I’ve always wanted to learn new things, I once wondered how websites are made. That’s how I got started with web design, and eventually, I developed my own website using WordPress. It’s technically free, but you do need to invest time in becoming proficient—keeping the website well-maintained and regularly updating it to prevent security issues. It takes time, but it’s not complicated work once you get the hang of it.
“I worked on this for two hours.”
Not all entrepreneurs have a background in website design. And that’s okay.
There are platforms like Wix, Squarespace, or Shopify that make it even easier to create something beautiful without any technical knowledge. But for me, WordPress works perfectly—I have full control, and that’s important to me. Oh, and... do I use ChatGPT to check my texts for spelling and grammar? Absolutely! Every second saved counts, especially as an entrepreneur. My tip: always write your own content. It’s fine to have it reviewed, but if you rely entirely on AI-generated content, it becomes pretty obvious quickly.
What are your plans for Tulu Tours, and how do you meet customer needs?
"During these tours, I make sure that everything is arranged in advance, from finding halal restaurants to prayer spaces..."
Although I organize group trips once or twice a year, the focus of Tulu Tours is on offering private tours. These tours can be fully customized, both in person and remotely. I want my clients to experience the trip of their dreams, exactly the way they want. Our remotely guided and self-guided tours are particularly appealing to smaller groups, especially for those who prefer to travel without an in-person guide but still want the assurance and comfort of support and planning.
During these tours, I ensure everything is arranged in advance, from finding halal restaurants to prayer spaces, and I remain accessible remotely via platforms like WhatsApp. This allows me to answer questions, provide tips, or offer support while clients enjoy the freedom to explore Japan their own way.
This flexible approach is especially popular among couples and groups of friends. They want the reassurance that everything is well-organized without the feeling of someone constantly by their side. I completely understand that, which is why I make sure they can experience Japan at their own pace and style while I’m always just a send message-knop away. It’s the perfect balance between independence and support.
Do you have a marketing strategy?
“Keep it short, clear, and visual.”
On Instagram, my content doesn't always get pushed well. I've never really gone viral, and even my own followers often miss my posts. It can be frustrating – I put in a lot of time and energy, and it sometimes feels like it's never enough.
But I know I'm not alone; many (new) businesses face the same issue.
I've learned that being accessible and clear is key. On my website and socials, I keep things short, clear, and visual so people can quickly find what they're looking for. SEO has also really helped make my website more discoverable. My growth came mainly from trial and error and listening to customer feedback. Every post, activity, or new strategy taught me something. Those struggles have made me stronger and motivated me to keep improving.
Do you have a marketing muse?
No, I don't have a specific marketing muse. What I've learned is that creativity often comes from within, and you don't always need an external source of inspiration. I'm naturally a creative person; I see an idea or image in my head, and then I try to bring it to life. For me, it's about turning my own vision into something tangible without necessarily needing outside inspiration. Also, copy-pasting doesn't work for businesses like mine. It's essential to position yourself in a unique way.
Does it pay well?
It obviously depends on how many tours I sell and how luxurious or unique the tours are. With a business like mine, if you don't work, there’s no income. But honestly, I'm satisfied. If I didn't have a child, or if my child were old enough to go to school, my potential would definitely be higher. Still, I feel incredibly blessed with what I do now, Alhamdulillah. With my own business, I have the freedom to take my son to the playground or visit the library during the day. I get to experience all those little, yet priceless moments of his development, and that’s valuable to me.
Business advice
My exact position is hard to replicate because I offer niche services. But for anyone considering a career in the travel industry, it’s important to first discover where your passion lies. Ask yourself questions: do you want to focus on a specific destination or region, like I do with Japan, or would you prefer to organize multiple trips? Do you want to plan travel as a travel advisor or go along as a guide?
Starting your own business is risky, especially in the travel industry. That’s why I recommend gaining experience at a travel agency or another organization in the sector first. This way, you learn the basics of the profession and get a good sense of the challenges involved. Entrepreneurship requires willpower and creativity because you have to solve all the setbacks on your own. There’s no HR, supervisor, or colleague to help. But it’s precisely through these challenges that you grow stronger and more creative. Sometimes, something just doesn’t work out, and that’s okay. It doesn’t mean you’re not good enough; it just means that particular path may not be meant for you.
It’s also important to stand out. My focus is on halal travel in Japan, with specific knowledge of the needs and interests of Western Muslim travelers. For others, it’s crucial to determine what makes them unique in a competitive market.
As for education: you don’t necessarily need a tourism background. I don’t have one myself. However, staying up to date and having a passion for travel are essential. The travel industry is constantly changing, and if you’re not interested, you’ll miss the trends and developments that are important for your customers. Passion and curiosity make all the difference.
How do you combine motherhood with this work?
For this question, you can write: Hard work! When I got the idea to start Tulu Tours, I thought, 'I’ll post something on Instagram and see what happens. But the requests quickly started pouring in. I was heavily pregnant in the hospital, laptop on my lap, holding video calls with clients and finalizing bookings. It was an intense and unique period, where I was literally building my business from my hospital bed.
Balancing motherhood with running my own business is intense. Every free second goes to my business. My child was born in Japan, so I didn’t have family nearby to help with my newborn. I had to be creative and independent in finding a way to combine everything. Was it challenging? Yes. If I didn’t have a true passion for Tulu Tours, I could never have kept going.
What motivates me is my love for Japan and the idea that I can help others (especially women) discover this amazing country without stress. Yes, it’s tough, but I’m grateful to Allah that I can do this work and, at the same time, experience my child's development up close. It's that balance that gives me strength and makes everything worthwhile.
How would you describe Japan?
"It’s something you have to experience yourself."
Japan is of course not always perfect – every country has its challenges. But what makes Japan unique is something that’s hard to put into words. I’ve often tried to explain it to my friends back home, but it never quite works. It’s a feeling you have to experience yourself, it’s not just the pretty pictures. The reason people keep coming back is mainly the atmosphere. It’s how people treat you – so respectful, considerate, and friendly. It gives you a kind of peace you don’t find everywhere. And besides that, Japan feels so safe. I remember once walking to a convenience store at 3 AM, and I felt completely at ease. That kind of safety, that feeling of trust, is truly exceptional. Of course, you have to look beyond just the tourist spots to discover the real Japan. But it’s a country that touches you on a deeper level. It’s a place you have to experience because words just don’t do it justice.
